Sunday, October 23, 2011

Asphalt wishes and polyurethane dreams

The coming of Fall and eventually Winter, has me skating a lot more lately. Let's face it, Winter sucks. I don't snowboard, so I'm fkn over it. Enjoy these photos and the last few long days. Feel free.





Sessions : Saturday October 22, 2011

Saturday, October 22, 2011
Took the longboard out to the Inlet today. Waves were chest to shoulder high with the occasional head-high rogue coming through. Wind was hard offshore and causing a lot of spray. Very difficult to see on take off. Lots of fun, but accidentally dropped in on some dude’s bomb peak because I couldn’t see him behind the spray cloud. Got right off, though so – no harm no foul I hope.

Monday, October 17, 2011

Sessions : Big Tom Goes Right. Dophins, Single fins, and Hard Winds

Friday, October 14, 2011

Went out at Seawatch today with Big Tom. He had a G & S 9 ft-something. Big guy, big board. I brought the 9’2. The waves were bumpy, shoulder-high crumblers with some fun sections. Wind was hard south. About 25mph. Got some good ones and then jumped on the fish for a few before switching back to the log. It seemed to work better getting in early with the extra length of the longboard because I was getting dumped on the sandbar taking off much later with the fish.

Saturday, October 15, 2011

The surf was much better today. Took the twin fish down to Riddle. The waves were a consistent chest to shoulder with the occasional head high coming through in 4-5 wave sets. In other words, FIRING! Strange that I had to fight myself down there because I initially decided the wind was gonna be too much. It was a steady 25mph offshore gusting up to God knows what. But I had mentally decided a few days prior that I was gonna be getting wet on Saturday. When the winds went so hard offshore, I figured it was a wrap and planned to stay in the studio and get some work done.  So, anyway, I talked myself down to Riddle Ave and paddled out. I didn’t get any waves initially, but when I looked south to the end of my own street I saw two dudes in barrels in the same set. I paddled all the way there from the jetty where I was. It was sick. The hard offshore held the lip up and forced the waves to peel perfectly (helped along by the extreme angle they were coming in from.) This allowed the fish plenty of face time to gain speed-maximizing fun. Tried to pull into a few barrels, but made it out of none. Did best when taking a high line right from take off and gaining speed for big bottom turns. What a day. Surfed twice and played a great show at night.

Sunday, October 16, 2011
It was only about 2 ft today. Took the log out and paddled jetty to jetty. Caught a few thigh high, machine-stamped  waves. Wind was offshore at about 15mph, water clear and green. Big difference from yesterday. The dolphins were out in force, which was cool cuz I love to see ‘em.

Monday, October 17, 2011

I took the 6’2” Erie Peeples single fin out today to Seawatch. The waves came unexpectedly, so I got to the beach in a hurry expecting to see empty line ups. Nope.  One loner just south of Brielle Rd, plus about 4-5 guys on the jetty of it. Photographers as well Headed to Seawatch, parked and paddled out on the south side of the jetty. Ran into Sean Bernhardt surfing solo. No one else around. Paddled out and immediately got a long right off the jetty. Waves were waist to stomach high with picture perfect, feathering lips. Riding the single-fin has me thinking a lot about different fin set-ups from days past

Monday, October 10, 2011

What I Learned : Ride The Wild Surf (1964)



The beach is a place to graduate from. You don't want to spend your life there. 
Wave pool shots that cut to pumping Sunset Beach and Waimea are awesome!
Barbara Eden is a babe.
"big set outside!!!"
The Jan & Dean theme song is rad.
Dropping in is ok because " the wave belongs to as many guys as can make it"
Steamer Lane is a rad name. Actors real name: Tab Hunter. Really.
Picking up chicks was easy in the 60's.
Fabian is a knucklhead kook.
"you can't spend your whole life surfing"
Da Bull+Pipeline=cool.
If you persist with this surfing nonsense, you will eventually lose the girl.
Shoulder hoppers are outcasts.
Greg Noll is not ashamed to claim.
Miki Dora had a cool pair of boarshorts.