Friday, October 14, 2011
Went out at Seawatch today with Big Tom. He had a G & S 9 ft-something. Big guy, big board. I brought the 9’2. The waves were bumpy, shoulder-high crumblers with some fun sections. Wind was hard south. About 25mph. Got some good ones and then jumped on the fish for a few before switching back to the log. It seemed to work better getting in early with the extra length of the longboard because I was getting dumped on the sandbar taking off much later with the fish.
Saturday, October 15, 2011
The surf was much better today. Took the twin fish down to Riddle. The waves were a consistent chest to shoulder with the occasional head high coming through in 4-5 wave sets. In other words, FIRING! Strange that I had to fight myself down there because I initially decided the wind was gonna be too much. It was a steady 25mph offshore gusting up to God knows what. But I had mentally decided a few days prior that I was gonna be getting wet on Saturday. When the winds went so hard offshore, I figured it was a wrap and planned to stay in the studio and get some work done. So, anyway, I talked myself down to Riddle Ave and paddled out. I didn’t get any waves initially, but when I looked south to the end of my own street I saw two dudes in barrels in the same set. I paddled all the way there from the jetty where I was. It was sick. The hard offshore held the lip up and forced the waves to peel perfectly (helped along by the extreme angle they were coming in from.) This allowed the fish plenty of face time to gain speed-maximizing fun. Tried to pull into a few barrels, but made it out of none. Did best when taking a high line right from take off and gaining speed for big bottom turns. What a day. Surfed twice and played a great show at night.
Sunday, October 16, 2011
It was only about 2 ft today. Took the log out and paddled jetty to jetty. Caught a few thigh high, machine-stamped waves. Wind was offshore at about 15mph, water clear and green. Big difference from yesterday. The dolphins were out in force, which was cool cuz I love to see ‘em.
Monday, October 17, 2011
I took the 6’2” Erie Peeples single fin out today to Seawatch. The waves came unexpectedly, so I got to the beach in a hurry expecting to see empty line ups. Nope. One loner just south of Brielle Rd, plus about 4-5 guys on the jetty of it. Photographers as well Headed to Seawatch, parked and paddled out on the south side of the jetty. Ran into Sean Bernhardt surfing solo. No one else around. Paddled out and immediately got a long right off the jetty. Waves were waist to stomach high with picture perfect, feathering lips. Riding the single-fin has me thinking a lot about different fin set-ups from days past
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